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PatternMaker Macros: Bodice Block Macros For Men, Women, Misses, Children and Babies

To downlaod and buy macros, please go to the PatternMaker Website.

This macro collection contains bodice blocks for men, women, misses, children and babies in many ease categories. The men's bodice blocks can be used to draft patterns for young men. Using these macros you can assemble patterns for a garment and its details according to your own wishes. In these instructions you get instructions of how to draft patters for a ladies' jacket and draped blouse using the basic bodice blocks. Later on I shall start publishing design lessons for different kind of garments for these macros.

Seam allowances

The bodice macros do not contain any seam allowance. Add seam allowances using command Draw / Offset or Draw / Seam allowances after you have made all the design changes to the patterns. The pattern pieces have not been grouped as in other macro collections. This is because you always have to make more or less alterations to the patterns which is easier to do if the pattern pieces are ungrouped.

Ease options

In men's, women's and misses' bodice blocks have 10 ease options. Choose the ease category according to the garment type and design and fabric thickness. Normal ease for a sloper is 8 cm. The sloper can be used to sew a test garment, muslin, to test that the measurements have been taken correctly. With this ease and sewn of non-elastic fabric the sloper should sit on the subject like a second skin, very tightly.

Ease categories from 0 to 4cm cannot be used for garments sewn of non-elastic garments and ease category 8 cm only in special cases.

Men, women and misses

0 cm, 0"
Tightly figure hugging garments of elastic fabrics

4 cm, 1 1/2"
Tightly fitting evening garments
Garments of elastic fabrics

8 cm, 3"
Tightly fitting blouses and dresses of thin woven fabrics
Tightly fitting evening jackets and boleros

10 cm, 4"
Blouses of thin woven fabrics
Tightly fitting jackets of thin woven fabrics
Tightly fitting sleeveless dresses

12 cm, 4 1/2"
Blouses, dresses, fitting jackets, vests

14 cm, 5 1/2"
Loose blouses of medium thick fabrics, dresses, jackets, blazers
T-shirts, sweat shirts

16 cm, 6"
Shirts, winter jackets of thick fabrics, light top coats
Loose T-shirts, sweat shirts, sport jackets, jobbing suits

18 cm, 7"
Top coats, sport jackets, jobbing suits

20 cm, 8"
Garments of very thick fabrics
Padded sport jackets, anoraks, top coats

22 cm, 8 5/8"
Loose sport and casual jackets
Padded sport jackets, anoraks, top coats

Ease options in the children's and the babies' bodice blocks

In the babies'/children's bodice macros the ease options are Basic, Indoor garments and Outdoor garments. You cannot draft patterns to any garment using the basic ease option. The pattern measurements are very near to the subjects. If you use this ease option you have to add the required ease to the patterns yourself.


The length of the bodice blocks is measured from the waistline. In the ladies' and the misses' bodice blocks you can use a length to the abdomen line or more. If you need a shorter bodice block, cut the pattern pieces accordingly. In the men's bodice block you can use any length. The children's and the babies' bodice blocks are always to the waistline.

Elastic fabrics

If you use elastic fabric for the garment, choose the ease category according to garment type and scale the patterns to account for the stretching in the fabric. To read of how to determine the elasticity in the fabric, click here.

It is better to use scaling for elastic garments than to try to figure out which smaller ease category to choose. If you are e.g. sewing a T-shirt of jersey or tricot - which does not have a lot elasticity, choose ease category 16 cm. If you use to the T-shirt more elastic fabric (like fabrics containing lycra), choose 16 cm ease and scale the patterns according to the fabric elasticity.

Button extension

With these macros you can produce patterns with or without button extension. If you want the patterns without button extension, type zero (0) in the appropriate measurement dialog box. Otherwise type the wanted width of the button extension.

Button lines

Use the button.mac macro included in this macro collection to draft button line to the garment if needed. Place button line always on the CF-line of the garment. The macro asks the number of the buttons and the length of the button line. Before running the button macro, measure the required length of it. At the end, the macro asks you to point with mouse the starting point of the button line (look at the blue command line at the bottom of the screen). The first button usually is placed at a distance of about 2 cm downwards from the neck opening. Try to plan the buttons so, that there is a button at the bust level. In garments of hip length, button line is normally not extended lower than top hip (abdomen) level.


Draft collars to the garment if you want to. Use the collars' macro included. The macro asks the circumference measurement of the neck opening of the garment. Note! Not the circumference of the subjects neck. You can add the collar to the neck opening as it is. You do not need to make the bigger for the collar. It has been taken into account when programming the macro.

With the collars macro you cannot draft a tailored collar. Later on I shall add this to the instructions.


Add pockets to the garment using the pockets' macro. First choose the pocket type and the direction of the pocket (horizontal, slant to front, slant to back), then point the place of the pocket on the garment.

The measurements of the pocket (pocket width and jetting height) are asked in the macro dialog box. Typing different measurements you can draft different size pockets to the garment, e.g. a hip pocket and a smaller breast pocket. Normal place of the hip pocket in women's garments is 5 cm upwards from the top hip (abdomen) level and quite near to the side seam. Normal place of the breast pocket is about 3-5 cm upwards from the bust point and quite near to the armscye seam. You can examine the garments drafted with other macros to see how the pockets are placed in them.

Draft pocket marks first on the garment patterns. Then copy the marks and draft seam allowances around them to make the patterns for the pocket pieces.

Using measurement tables

You can use the women's and the men's default measurement tables with these macros. To read about how to use the measurement tables, click here.


At this stage there only are normal one-piece sleeves available. Two-piece sleeves will be added later.

Example of how to use the macros in practice

Here is how to draft patterns for a ladies' jacket.

1) run the ladies' bodice block macro using ease option 16 cm
2) type the width of the button extension as 2 cm in the measurement dialog box. Type the wanted length of the jacket in the measurement dialog box.
3) add button line 2 cm downwards from the front neck opening at the CF-line
4) measure the length of the front and the back neck opening. Decide whether you want to start the collar from the CF-line or whether you want to extend it to the button extension outer edge. Run the collars macro to draft the collar type you want to.
5) run the pockets' macro to draft pocket marks on the front piece. Copy pocket pieces to make patterns for them.
6) Remove the waist darts and the back shoulder dart
7) Remove sleeve elbow dart and shape the sleeve cuff if you want to
8) draft facings to the front and the back pieces.
9) add seam allowances to the patterns.

More ideas

Women's draped blouse

Examine the picture to the left to draft patterns for a women's draped blouse.


Below you find two pictures of how to draft hood patterns using collars as a basis.

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