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Welcome to Leena', the tutorial and pattern drafting site for
PatternMaker Drafting Sofware for PC.
In this site, you will find tutorials, pattern drafting instructions, sewing instructions and many other sewing projects.
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PatternMaker Macros and Pattern Collections

PatternMaker uses small add-on programs called macros to produce fashion patterns according to given measurements.
You need PatternMaker to run these macros. Macros can be run with PatternMaker Basic, which is freeware and which you can get directly from PatternMaker.To download and buy macros, please go to the
PatternMaker Website.

Ladies' vol. 1 macros are included in all commercial versions of the program. Other macros you can buy separately.

Macro collections published so far

To see what macro collections there are , please go to the
PatternMaker Website.

Installation password

You get a password when buying macro collection. If you don't have it ask for it by email from where you bought the macros. Please contact if you need help.

Two free macros

You can get two fully-functional macros for free when you go to the PatternMaker website. The download includes Ladies' Pants and collars macros as fully-functional versions and other garment collections as demo versions. Please note that in the demo macros you cannot type your measurements.

If you are going to use the Freeware Basic version of PatternMaker with which you can run all the macros, you can buy additional macro collections.

Free macro for button lines and folding dart

Download free macro for applying a button line in the patterns. When you run the macro it asks the number of buttons and the length of the button line. Then the macro applies the button line starting from the place where you click. If you want to apply a button line between two points on the pattern (e.g. between bust and high hip (abdomen, this is a good choice for jackets regardless of the jacket length), first measure the distance of these points with PatternMaker measuring tool (Draw/Dim). Give this length to the macro.

Download button line macro:PatternMaker Website. After you have clicked the link from within the PatternMaker site, your browser asks whether you want to run the file from where it is or save it to your (hard)disk. Choose running the file. Then a WinZip window opens and you can extract the file into the directory where you want it to be. Use the macro in PatternMaker the way you use other macros.

Ladies' vol. 1 macros include:

Ladies' vol. 1 macros are included in all commercial versions of PatternMaker:

Bodyshirt (pullover)

Other macro collections can be bought separately from PatternMaker at the
PatternMaker Website.

One macro with many garment options or many macros

In macro collections where there only is one macro file, the garments alternatives are as selectable options. In other macros the garment alternatives are as different macro files.

About ease in the macros

Patterns cannot be drawn exactly according to one's body measurements because one could not move in the finished garment.  Also fashion determines how much ease there is in certain garments.  Jackets, dresses and blouses, for example, are rather tight-fitting and body hugging nowadays.  A few years ago, jackets used to be boxy and straight. 

The amount of ease calculated for PatternMaker patterns is moderate, according to prevailing fashion. 

Ease for basic patterns (Basic bodice and Pants) is predetermined and cannot be changed.  They are close-fitting garments with only the needed fitting ease added. 

If you want to add or decrease ease to these garments, cut body or  pants pieces vertically in two and move parts apart from each other or on top of each other to get the desired result. There is an exercises of how to do this in Exercise 9 in the Tutorial, also available on this website. Don't add or decrease anything to side, armscye or sleeve seams. This is also the technique to be used, if you want to add ease to a jacket to change it to an overcoat. Start from maximum ease version jacket. Pants and skirt can be enlarged also by adding space to (only) side seams. 

The basic bodice is to be used as a basis for your own designs and you have to add the needed ease for fitting and style yourself.  Basic bodice is not to be used as  is for any garment.  It will fit like "a second skin." 

The ladies' shirt also has a predetermined ease which cannot be changed.  It is a garment similar to a men's dress shirt with dropped sleeve caps.  If you want to sew a more fitted shirt, use blouse macro and leave darts unsewn. 

Other garment patterns have three ease choices: Minimum, Normal and Maximum 

You should always make your first garment with normal ease.  This is good for most cases.  It contains enough wearing ease as well as the ease needed for garment design.  Don't add anything to your body measurements - the program calculates the needed eases.  Garment patterns drawn with PatternMaker macros are ready to be sewn as they are. 

Here are some ideas of how to use other than normal ease

Minimum ease: 

garments of very thin fabrics
close-fitting garments and evening dresses
garments made of elastic fabrics 
closely fitting sleeveless dresses

Maximum ease: 

garments of thick fabrics
jackets of thick wool fabrics for outdoors use 
garments for leisure use 
loose-fitting garments like (tunics, T-shirts, sweaters etc.) outer garments to be worn over other garments 

You might want your garments to have more ease or less ease than normally used.  Once you are familiar with the patterns the macros create, you can use maximum or minimum according to your wishes.  By testing different eases, you will learn to use them for many purposes. 

You should not change your actual body measurements in order to increase or decrease ease.  It won't work.  You don't know all the measurements which have to be changed or cannot change them as the program calculates some measurements for you. 

Ease chart

In the following table you'll find the ease applied to women's basic macros.

Ease is normally described by giving it at bust circumference.  There is also ease at other places such as at neck circumference, back width, armscye depth, shoulder and sleeve length etc.  These eases are not given in the table below but the differences correspond to bust ease. 

Basic bodice:  Bust +3.25.00in/8 cm
Skirt: Normal hip +1.5in/+4cm, Minimum hip +0.75in/+2 cm, Maximum hip +2.5in/+6
Pants: Waist +0 cm , Abdomen and hip +1.5in/4 cm 
Pullover: Minimum, bust -0.75in/2 cm, Normal, bust +0in/0 cm, Maximum, bust +3.25.00in/8 cm 
Blouse: Minimum, bust +4in/10 cm, Normal, bust +4.75in/12 cm, Maximum, bust +5.5in/14 cm 
Shirt: Bust +6.25.00in/16 cm
Jacket: Minimum, bust +4.75in/12 cm, Normal, bust +5.5in/14 cm, Maximum, bust +6.25.00in/16 cm 
Dress: Minimum, bust +4in/10 cm, Normal, bust +7.75in/12 cm, Maximum, bust +5.5in/14 cm

Shoulder pads

Space for shoulder pads is included in most of the patterns.  Pullover is designed without shoulder pads.

HINT : If you want to add shoulder pads to garments which do not have space for them, raise shoulder tip at front and back 0.5-1 cm / 1/4-1/2" and lengthen shoulder with same amount.  Also raise the top of the sleeve cap with same amount you raised the shoulder tip.

Length of the garments in the ladies' vol. 1 macro collection

The length of the garments is measured from the waistline. In the jacket macro you can type any length in the measurement dialog box, 0 cm means a length to the waistline. In the blouse macro you can use a length to the abdomen line or more in the dress macro to the hip line or more. If you need a shorter garment, cut the pieces accordingly. The length of the shirt is always hip height + 10 cm (4"), the length of the pullover is always abdomen height +5 cm (2"). The length of the basic (bodice) block is to the hip line. If you need a shorter or a longer garment, cut the pattern pieces or move the hem vertices accordingly.

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