Site Map

Home page


 About Leena's


Welcome to Leena'

Welcome to Leena', the tutorial and pattern drafting site for
PatternMaker Drafting Sofware for PC.
In this site, you will find tutorials, pattern drafting instructions, sewing instructions and many other sewing projects.
Please Enjoy!

Use Site Map

This web site contains hundreds of pages of information. To find what you need quickly, please use the
Site Map

PatternMaker Software, Manufacturers and Dealers

For PatternMaker software, manufacturers and dealers,
please go to the PatternMaker website at


Sewing instructions
Sewing projects
Pattern drafting


PatternMaker Sewing Projects
Women's Topcoat

Copyright ©1998-2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järvenpää

Use PatternMaker ladies' coat/robe macro to draft patterns to this coat.
To download and buy macros, please go to the PatternMaker Website.

In the macro there are options for two kinds of hoods, normal and integrated. See picture.

Iron interfacing to coat's front and back facings, under collar and  pocket flaps. It is also good to iron interfacing to coat's hem seam  allowance. When cutting the collar pieces, cut upper collar about 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) bigger at the neck edge.  This forces the collar to turn down to its correct position when it is done. 

Only vertical coat seams need to be overlocked. Collar, shoulder and sleeve seams do not need to be overlocked as they will be inside the lining.  Press all seams after sewing and overlocking them. 

Cut a seam at the linings CB and add extra width to the seam, to form a pleat. 

Sew pocket flaps together along the outer edge right side to right side. (Picture 1A). Clip seam allowances at corners. Turn flaps right side out and iron. Edgestitch at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from the edges.

Sew pockets to the front pieces. Mark the pocket mouth line on the front pattern pieces by machine basting. Place pocket flap on the line raw edges towards side seam. Place one pocket bag on top of the flap and the other opposite it on the pocket mouth line. (Picture 1B).

Sew a rectangle around the pocket mouth line, sewing through all thicknesses. (Picture 1C). Cut along the line and diagonally at the ends at the corners. Push pocket bags to the wrong side of the garment and press. Turn pocket flap to its right position and press. Attach the flap ends to the garment along the edgestitching, sewing through all thicknesses.

If you need more instructions of how to sew pockets, refer to the general sewing instructions on this site.

Sew the coat's shoulder and side seams. (Picture 2A).

Prepare collar. Sew under collar and top collar together right side to right side. Clip at corners and turn right side out and iron. (Picture 2B). Machine baste the raw edges of the collar (neck seam) together.

Place collar on the coat's neckline, with right side of under collar against the coat's right side.  Match collar shoulder mark with the coat's shoulder seam. Machine baste the collar to the coat's neck from lapel corner (Picture 2C, point c) to other lapel corner. Clip the seam allowance at the lapel corners.

Prepare sleeves. Sew sleeve elbow darts and sleeve seams. Sew sleeves to the armscyes. Easestitch sleeve cap, allowing a seam allowance of 1/4 inch (1/2 cm). Turn sleeves right side out and coat wrong side out.  Place sleeves inside coat (right side against right side) so that sleeves' shoulder marks match with the coat's shoulder seams. Insert sleeves by sewing along easestiches  Adjust ease by pulling on the stitching in the ease cap. If there tends to be too much ease at sleeve cap (some fabrics tolerate more ease than others do), you can adjust this by placing sleeves lower at the armpit.  There should be as much ease as possible, but no wrinkles at cap seams, when done.

HINT: In the design tutorial there are instructions of how to use a facing in sleeve cap to helps to get nicely formed sleeve heads. Click here .

Prepare lining. Sew the side and the back seams of the lining. Fold the lining's hem seam allowance twice in and sew. Sew front facings to the lining front edges and back neck facing on top of the right side of the lining's back neck. Sew lining's shoulder seams. Sew lining's sleeves and sew the sleeves to the lining.

To join the jacket and the lining, place the lining on top of the coat with right side against right side.  Leave  collar in between and upside down.  (Picture 2D). Sew a continuous seam as follows: across hem of front facing, along  one front edge, around neck to other front edge and finally across hem of other front facing.  Clip seam allowance at at neck seam at about 1 inch (2 cm) intervals.  Cut corners diagonally (including the corner atthe front of hem) and turn the lining inside the jacket.  Open seams well and press.  Edgestitch along the front edges and around the collar at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from the edges.

If you sew a hood to your coat, attach it to the the coat the same way you attach the collar. You can sew the coat with hood with or without collar. The latter one is sewn the same way a shawl collar is sewn.

If you choose to sew a normal or a detachable hood, cut the hood pieces in 4 copies. If you use different fabric to the hood lining, cut 2 hood pieces from the coat fabric and 2 from lining fabric. Sew the back seam of the hood, hood pieces right side aganst right side (Picture 3A). Sew the back seam of the lining the same way. Place the lining inside the hood, right side against right side and sew along front edge (Picture 3B). Turn hood right side out, open seams, press and edgestitch at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from the edge. Baste the neck edges of the hood together. Attach the hood to the coat the same way you attach the collar. You can sew both the collar and the hood to your coat.

If you want to sew a detachable hood, sew its neck seam from the wrong side - before turning the hood right side out. Leave an opening for turning the hood right side out. Close the opening with hand stitches. Then press and edgestitch. Sew buttonholes to the neck edge of the hood and buttons to the coat neck (Picture 3B). Or use snaps. If you use zipper as the fastener, sew one half of it to the coat neck seam under the collar and the other half to the hood neck seam.

If you choose the integrated hood, sew the coat's shoulder (Picture 4A, a) and side seams (Picture 4A, b) and the back seam of the hood (Picture 4A, d-g). Cut the seam allowance at the shoulder/neck corner of the coat (Picture 4A, arrow) and sew the hood neck (Picture 4A, c) to the coat neck (Picture 4A, g). Cut clips to the seam allowances with intervals of about 1" (2 cm).

Prepare the lining as for coat with collar and attach the front facing with the integrated hood to the front edges of the lining (Picture 4B ). Sew shoulder seam. Cut seam allowance at the shoulder/neck corner. Sew the back seam of the hood and sew the hood neck to the coat neck in the lining as in the coat. Cut clips to the seam allowances. Press coat and lining. Put them right side agains right side and sew accross the hem of one facing and around front and hood edges and accross the hem of the other front facing. Turn the coat right side out, open seams and press. Edgestitch front edge at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from the edge.

Fold sleeve cuff seam allowances in and sew with invisible stitches. Attach the lining to the sleeve ends. Sew hem with invisible stitches.  Sew buttons and buttonholes.

Sew belt loops and attach them on side seams according to the marks in the patterns. Sew belt. Cut belt double from coat fabric on fold and single from quilted lining fabric. Fold the belt lengthwise into two, right side in, place lining on top of it and sew accross the ends and along the long side. Leave an opening for turning the belt right side out. Turn the belt right side out and close the opening with hand stitches. Edgestitch at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from the edges.

Sew button holes in front edge of one front piece according to marks in the patterns, only 2 button holes (look at the drawing). Sew buttons on top of other 2 button holes in this same front piece. Sew 2 button holes to the other front piece, only 2 buttons.

Do the final pressing.

Home page       |        Suomeksi       |         About Leena's       |         Contact is a subsidiary of PatternMaker Software USA.   Copyright © 1998, 2006 Leena Lähteenmäki, PatternMaker Software.